Growing tensions have emerged between Germany and Turkey in recent months. Surprisingly, the cause is not political or security-related issues, but rather a popular dish: the doner kebab.
The controversy ignited when Turkey petitioned the European Union to grant protected status to doner kebab as a Turkish national dish. Such recognition would impose strict standards on vendors selling the dish, regulating everything from meat slice dimensions to acceptable knife types and spice blends. Despite not being an EU member, Turkey submitted its request through European intermediaries.
Several European foods currently enjoy similar protections. Italy's Neapolitan pizza, for instance, must adhere to specific preparation methods to bear its name.
Germany has voiced strong opposition to Turkey's request, citing the doner's immense popularity within its borders. One-third of Germans indulge in the dish at least monthly, contributing to a domestic market valued at roughly 7 billion euros annually. German officials argue that protected status would trigger significant price hikes, negatively impacting countless consumers.
The German position maintains that a popular doner variant, featuring vegetables and various sauces, was actually pioneered by Turkish immigrants in Germany. This, they contend, makes it a German-Turkish fusion rather than a purely Turkish creation.
This culinary dispute has broader implications for Germany, even influencing local politics. Doner prices have surged from about four euros two years ago to as much as ten euros in some cities today, becoming a symbol of rising living costs. The issue has gained such prominence that a far-left party has called for price controls on the beloved meat dish.
Julia Klöckner, Germany's Agriculture Minister and a politician of Turkish descent, has also weighed in, characterizing potential new European regulations as "unnecessary interference in the German market with economic ramifications."
The two nations now face a six-month window to reach a compromise. Failing that, the European Union will be forced to adjudicate – a decision likely to displease one side or the other. Meanwhile, the doner continues to evolve on German soil, with variants incorporating potatoes, ground meat patties, and even chocolate-based dessert versions. Regardless of the outcome, it's clear that the battle over the doner kebab's identity is far from resolved.
