Early in July, Ben-Gurion International Airport was one of the hotspots of the protests against the judicial reform. In the ultra-Orthodox community, there was high drama. But this was neither because of opposition nor support for the reform: The cause of the excitement was that the Gur rebbe was due to board a flight to Switzerland and his followers feared that he would not be able to get to the plane on time. In the end, the flight was canceled due to a technical malfunction.
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The solution came from a wealthy Hassid in the form of a private jet, and the rebbe's vacation got underway without any hitches. His Hassidim breathed a sigh of relief.
Video: Lag B'Omer celebrations in Meron
For non-Haredi ears, the above description may sound like an exaggeration, but it is the absolute truth. Every year, the leaders of Hassidic courts go on vacation for several weeks, usually from the beginning of "Bein Hazmanim" (a period when yeshivas are closed) until the end of the month of Elul, or from the beginning of July to the middle of August.
Haredi websites and newspapers cover the vacations in the same way that secular gossip columns cover the vacations of mega-celebrities. Photographers seize every opportunity to get a shot of the vacationing rabbis and followers devour eagerly any news from Switzerland or Austria.
A moment of respite
"Unlike a Lithuanian or Sephardic rabbi, a Hassidic rebbe carries an entire community on his back," explains Moshe Weisberg, editor of the Behadrey Haredim website and an expert on Hassidic courts. "All year round they receive an audience, taking questions on what to call a newborn child, putting the final seal on a match, and through to the most difficult cases. So, from day one of the 'Three Weeks,' when there are no celebrations and events, until the beginning of the month of Elul, they take a break."
The rebbes usually board regular flights with the court treasurer and sometimes with family members and do not use a private jet, but they use the services of the private VIP terminal at Ben-Gurion, which allows them to go through security checks faster – and saves them from having to see sights that are not modest enough for their eyes.
There are some relatively sought-after destinations in Europe that they go to, such as resort cities in Switzerland and Austria, and for this reason, you can sometimes see several Hassidic rebbes together. Shlomi Germon, a travel agent to the leaders of the Hassidic courts, explains that "most rabbis go to Switzerland because it is a calm and beautiful place with clear, clean air. However, since there is not much supply in Switzerland, and kosher hotels have opened in Austria, it has also become a desirable destination."
Ultra-Orthodox media cover the trips religiously, giving the feeling that these are luxury vacations, similar to those of secular celebrities, but sources familiar with the matter say that this description is detached from reality. Although the vacations are financed by wealthy Hassidim, the rabbis make do with a modest holiday.
There are two types of destinations – a private villa rented by a wealthy Hassid, or a few rooms in a kosher hotel. "The Hassidim and well-off students see helping to pay for such a vacation as a privilege, and there is even competition over who will pay for it," says Germon. "The buzz around these holidays makes it sound as if they are luxury vacations for oligarchs, but the rabbis don't go on eye-popping tours, both because they know it doesn't look good and because they're simply not interested in doing so. All they want is a little peace of mind in their room."
Weisberg adds, "The wealthy finance the vacations because they feel that if their rebbe has the strength to get through the High Holy Days properly, it will be thanks to them. That's why they run after the rebbes."
Shuki Lehrer is one of the most well-known photographers in the ultra-Orthodox world. Some 25 years ago, he began documenting the rebbes on their vacations. These photos gained a lot of attention in the pre-digital era. "I would travel with food from home and take photos. Today you see the rebbes getting on a plane and taking a stroll around the grounds of their hotel, but back then they would leave for two months, and it was as if they had disappeared."
"In green pastures" (Psalm 23) is how the Haredi world defines the rebbes at rest. During their weeks off, just before they return to the beginning of the yeshiva year and the intensive Jewish holidays, they mostly enjoy the peace and quiet. Although today they are unable to disengage completely and the treasurer will keep the rebbe updated on urgent matters, it is still nothing like the standard, intense routine of the leader of a Hassidic court. The rabbis study quietly for hours or go for walks in nature. "I got to see a rebbe studying on the balcony singing a special nigun alone, in front of the breathtaking view," Lehrer recalls. "It's amazing. In Israel, when he opens a window, everyone looks at him straight away, and here he is calm."
Special adjustments
One of the things that some rebbes demand is a mikveh (ritual Jewish baths) as some of them immerse daily. For this purpose, special mikvehs are built – a kind of mobile pool that a local rabbi inspects so that it will be kosher. Beyond that, most requirements are fairly standard.
The stay of the head of a Hassidic community overseas can require some special adjustments. If the hotel is kosher, things are relatively straightforward, but many times a cook will accompany the rebbe to take care of kosher food. In addition, it is necessary to arrange for ten men for a minyan, which is considered a great privilege for the Hassidim who are chosen for the task. Close family members will often come to stay for some of the time.
At the resorts, Hassidim who live in Europe will wait for Shabbat to be with the rebbe, pray, and take part in a tisch. "Wealthy people take advantage of the opportunity and stay in nearby hotels to complete a minyan for the rebbe. They know not to bother him, but to just come to prayers," Lehrer says.
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